Archive for January, 2011
January 30, 2011 · Filed under General
I stumbled on this at the supermarket. I took a gamble because it was the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan that intrigued me. I decanted it at 5pm and had my first sip at 8pm with a salad of chicken, lettuce and green peppers with a minimal dressing of oil, lemon and salt with Miles Davis “Someday my Prince will Come” on in the background
It has elegant structure with beautiful languid tannins; a nose of Mediterranean berry fruits amid thyme, aniseed and the sun-baked thistle. It is luscious and gamey in the mouth with a sustained fruity finish. A taste of Lebanese wine aristocracy.
For those who despair at Musar (I am not one) it is a similar blend without the VA, one that removes the shackles of anonymous international modernity that afflicts many of today’s wines and reminds us of the uniqueness of Lebanon’s terroir. Great use of Carignan and Cinsault. Ksara’s ‘Chateau’ wines are today made with Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot and Petit Verdot. I prefer this style. And at $21 (in Lebanon) it’s worth the experience.
Mrs Karam was out with friends. By the time she came home it had gone and I was snoozing on the sofa listening to Something Else by Canonball Adderly. Perfection.
PS I wonder how many are left or indeed why Chateau Ksara decided to release such a random vintage.
January 30, 2011 · Filed under General
Mrs Karam went to party with her girlfriends last night. She took a bottle of Massaya Classic, not because she particularly likes it but because it has a screw top. In fact, if she had it her way she would buy Massaya Blanc and the Classic every time simply on this basis. “It’s easier to open,” the ever-practical Mrs Karam argues. “We women don’t like the corkscrew thing, plus it can be resealed and put in the fridge”.
But let’s move to another scenario. I was having a drink with a couple a few months back. We were discussing Riedel stemware and I think I said something that the famous glasses are not necessarily for everyday day drinking and the woman said “yah, not for the kind of wine that comes with a screw top”. Hmph! No ambiguity as to where she stands on the screwcap issue.
It’s hardly a new debate. Global attitudes are changing but in Lebanon there is clearly still an image problem with too many consumers equating screwcaps as cheap. But the vast majority of wine today is made to be drunk with two to three years. So the hazy argument about the aging ability of the screwcap is a non-starter.
For the record screwtops are easy to open and resealable. There is no cork taint. Wine can be stored standing up and you don’t get that irritating situation of the cork breaking, leading to bits floating in the glass or decanter
Would you buy wine in a screwtop bottle? Remember who does the shopping?
January 21, 2011 · Filed under General
It’s always a pleasure to see Sandro and Karim Saade the brains behind Lebanon’s Chateau Marsyas and the Bargylus winery in Syria. At lunch we opted for the Bargylus 06 a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot. What can I say apart from stunning? It had exciting dry minerality in the front palate leading to a lovely basket of fruits underpinned with the faintest of bell pepper notes courtesy of the cabernet sauvignon. The wood is well integrated and the finish powerful and sustained. It occurred to me walking home (in that lovely post prandial way) that this wine could do for Syria what Chateau Musar did for Lebanon. Find it and enjoy it! Exciting times indeed.
January 18, 2011 · Filed under General
Many Lebanese drinkers I know complain that Lebanese (as opposed to foreign) wine gives them a headache, that it is too tannic. For the record, it has nothing to do with the tannins and, if memory serves, everything to do with the Phenolics in the wine that can release the headache inducing seratomin.
But I bet we are simply serving the wrong wine at the wrong time with the wrong food. We also should be serving wines that are meant to be drunk now. The latest Comte de M, or any other Lebanese flagship label for that matter, really should be ‘put down’ for at least five years in my opinion to allow the tannins to become softer. This will immeasurably improve the drinking experience.
The label may impress your guests but they wont get the best out of what’s in the bottle if it’s too young. If your pocket or your patience can’t stretch that far, serve them what the trade calls young drinking wines. Trust me, they will enjoy the dinner a lot more. Who knows? They might even give up whisky!
January 9, 2011 · Filed under General
Both the Daily Telegraph and the Guardian ran substantial pieces on Lebanese wine this weekend. These were given added credibility by the standing of the authors, Victoria Moore and Fiona Becket. These writers are hugely influential and this must be good news for a Lebanese sector with eyes on the lucrative UK market. Twitter was also buzzing with activity.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/8243878/Lebanese-wine-Edgy-exhilarating-and-drinkable.html?sms_ss=facebook&at_xt=4d25e796971f6da9%2C0
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/jan/08/lebanese-wine-review-fiona-beckett
January 6, 2011 · Filed under General
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/8243878/Lebanese-wine-Edgy-exhilarating-and-drinkable.html
Just read this online in the Daily Telegraph. Victoria Moore is of the most thoughtful and lively wine writers out there. Lebanon has received a lot of exposure in recent months – Tim Atkin MW also wrote an equally compelling summary of the sector – and it was good to see Cinsault get the respect it deserves as well as two of my favorite wines, Domaine Des Tourelle’s Rose and Massaya’s Silver Selection given the thumbs up. Also, I bet Sege Hochar has never been described as a Bushy eye-browed septuagenarian. Anyway have read and tell me what you think.
January 1, 2011 · Filed under General
The Temple of Jupiter at Baalbek is a must seeThe Lebanese are starting to take an interest in their burgeoning wine industryThe vineyards of Chateau Kefraya in the Western Bekaa ValleyThe winter oven in the restaurant at the Massaya winery
Lebanon’s wine country – essentially the Bekaa Valley for the time being at least – offers the perfect peg upon which to hang an ideal day trip. Even the loner can just get in the car and head off over the mountain pass at Dahr el Baidar, drive down to Chtaura and be faced with over half of dozen possibilities for scenic beauty, delicious food, better wine and even a bit of historic trivia.
Located on the main road just past the Massabki Hotel, is Domaine Des Tourelles, one of Lebanon’s oldest wineries and one of its best-kept wine secrets. Founded by a French engineer, Eugene Francois Brun in 1868 it was run by his grandson Pierre Brun until his death in 2000. The winery is now owned by the Issa and Issa-Khoury families and produces 5 wines, liqueurs and the famous Brun arak. A phone call to Christiane Issa, giving at least 24 hours notice, should guarantee a tour of one of the oldest wineries in the Bekaa (with many of the original features that date back to the turn of the century) culminating with a wine tasting in the winery’s garden.
Michael’s choice: Marquis des Beys, a medium bodied red made from
Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a developed smoky aroma of cloves. Smooth texture with restrained tannins that have nicely integrated with the fruits.
Domaine des Tourelles: 08-540114
Take the turn-off to Zahleh and at the first big roundabout you will see Lebanon’s oldest wine producer Chateau Ksara, which has been making wine since 1857, when the forward thinking Jesuit brothers decided to use French vines to make their wines. Sold in 1973 to the current owners, the winery is a rich source of Bekaa history. It is home to the first observatory in the Middle East (set up nearly 100 years ago) and has 2 km of Roman passages, discovered at the turn of the century and which are now used as the winery’s cellars. There is a tasting room and a gift shop as well as a sound and light show in various languages for those interested in the Ksara’s rich history.
Michael’s choice: Reserve de Couvent, a medium bodied wine made from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. On the nose there are menthol and peppers
Black fruits in the mouth underpinned with savory tannins balanced with good length.
Chateau Ksara: 08-813495/818254
Further up the road in Zahleh is Domaine Wardy, another new generation producer of no less than 11 different wines. It is owned by the Wardy family of Ghantous Abou Raad arak fame. The very elegant tasting room is already in place, but 24 hours notice is required for wine lovers who want to sample the winery’s extensive labels.
Michael’s Choice: Private Selection, a full-bodied red made from Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a smoky nose. Balanced in the mouth with a fruity finish with well-integrated soft and velvety tannins giving it good aging potential.
Domaine Wardy: 08-930141
Down the road from Chtaura, just past the Jesuit monastery of Tanail (the original makers of Chateau Ksara) are signposts for the Tanail Property, home to Massaya the Franco-Lebanese winery that arguably the spearhead of the 90s wine revolution in Lebanon. Today, Massaya is still one of Lebanon’s most hi-profile labels and this is part is down to the success the owners have achieved in coaxing people to dine at their beautiful winery. Run by the charismatic Ghosn brothers, Ramzi and Sami, Massaya offers country-style lunches made from Bekaa produce and prepared by people from the area. The lunches are served all year round (indoors in winter around a huge roaring fire and in the gardens in spring, summer and autumn). Bookings required during the summer and holiday periods.
Michael’s choice: Silver Selection, a medium bodied wine made from Grenache Noir, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre. It is ever so peppery on the nose with a second wave of floral notes. The texture is supple and the tannins well integrated. The finish is peppery but underpinned with fruit.
Massaya: 08-510135
Western Bekaa
To hit the Western Bekaa, home to four of Lebanon’s wineries, turn right at the entrance of Chtaura at the signpost for Mashghara. Chateau St Thomas, located at the far end of Qab Elias, is owned by one branch of the famous arak-making Touma family. Either Said Joe, Nathalie or Micheline Touma will be on hand to let you sample their six wines, which have made impression on the international scene. During harvest time friends of the winery are invited to camp out and wake early to help pick the grapes with the bedou. Other events are also held during the summer. Phone for details.
Michael’s choice: Les Gourmets, a red wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. The fruit is complex and thoughtful while the finish is balanced and integrated.
Chateau St Thomas: 08-500812
Just before Clos St Thomas is the Heritage winery. While it doesn’t yet have a formal tasting room, a prior phone call to the charismatic owner, Dr Dargham Touma (or Dr D as his label proclaims) should ensure a tasting.
Michael’s choice: Fleuron, a light and fruity red made from Cinsault, Mourvedre, Carignan, Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. The result is a fruity sun-kissed and earthy red with bags of flavor.
Heritage: 08-500609
After that, take a leisurely drive past the beautiful swamps at Amiq and the billowing silver birch that line the crop fields down to Cave Kouroum. This winery is not as well known as others in Lebanon but its staff will always give a warm welcome.
Michael’s choice: 7 Cepages. As the name suggests a blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir. The nose is fruity with peppery undertones. Structured with depth and complexity. Hard to find wine that is worth a try because of the interesting blend.
Cave Kouroum de Kefraya: 05- 953401
Across the road is Chateau Kefraya, one of Lebanon’s most celebrated and prestigious producers. The winery has beautiful gardens named after operas and a very popular restaurant and tasting room. If you choose to dine, the wines are sold at retail price so you wont break the bank if you choose a bottle of the famous Comte de M. After lunch why not take a drive further south and enjoy Kefraya’s 300 hectares of landscaped vineyards, and head down to Lake Qaroun for a sunset stroll around the shore. Bookings required during the summer and holiday periods.
Michael’s choice: Comte de M, a full-bodied red made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. One Lebanon’s most famous wines, it has black peppers and thyme on the nose. Elegant structure and a smooth finish and a nice balance between the tannins and the fruit that will ensure that this landmark wine will age very nicely.
Chateau Kefraya 08-645333
Other wineries to visit in the area include Château Ka (08- 543500), where I recommend the Fleur de Ka; Coteaux du Liban (08-930700), which has a great Syrah and Château Khoury (03-075422) which has a Cuvee St Therese, a sumptuous Pinot Noir/Caladoc blend.
The Bekaa wonderland
What next? Well the beauty of the Bekaa is that there is always something else to do when the wine has been drunk. For fans of antiquity, there are the ruins in Baalbek and Anjar. In Kerak, near Zahleh, there is the supposed tomb of Noah and in Qab Elias there is the huge Roman mural carved into the cliff celebrating the valley’s fertility.
If its shopping you like, do it Bekaa style. If you have a fold down trunk, the Bekaa is the best place to buy plants for decorate your home, balcony or gardens at less than half the price of Beirut, while the monks at Tanail still make and sell fresh produce. Or why not simply just drive down the Western Bekaa and turn off towards the anti Lebanon mountains, park the car and talk a walk amid the silence in this natural wonderland. The Bekaa is a bug waiting to be caught.
Michael’s blog: wines of Lebanon and the Mediterranean 